Complete the checklist to get your delivery readiness score and recommendation.
0
Good ✅
0
OK ⚠️
0
Bad ❌
🔍
Before You Start
Verify documents and details first — before touching the car
0%▼
CRITICAL
Invoice colour, variant, and features match exactly what you ordered
Dealers sometimes deliver a different variant or colour than what was booked — especially when a specific colour is unavailable. Once you accept delivery, reversing this is extremely difficult and time-consuming.
How to check: Pull out your booking receipt or order confirmation. Compare the variant name, colour code, and feature list with what the dealer's invoice says. Every item must match exactly.
CRITICAL
Chassis number on invoice matches the physical chassis number on the car
This confirms the car in front of you is actually the car on your invoice. Rare but not impossible — mix-ups happen in busy dealerships, and the consequences are significant paperwork nightmares.
How to check: The chassis number is stamped on the firewall in the engine bay, the door jamb sticker, and visible through the windshield on a VIN plate. Every digit must match your invoice exactly.
CRITICAL
Manufacturing date is recent — within 3 months of delivery
Cars sitting in stockyards for 6–12 months develop flat-spotted tyres, degraded lubricants, and discharged batteries. You're paying for a "new" car — it should be recently manufactured. More than 3 months old = negotiate a discount.
How to check: Check the tyre sidewall DOT code (last 4 digits = week and year of manufacture). Also check the door jamb sticker which shows the vehicle manufacture date. Compare both to today's date.
IMPORTANT
Odometer reads under 50 km — not suspiciously high
A new car at delivery should have minimal kilometres — typically 5–20 km from factory test drives and dealer movements. Above 50 km needs explanation. Above 100 km is a red flag that the car was used as a demo or test drive vehicle.
How to check: Start the car and read the odometer on the instrument cluster. Ask the dealer to explain any reading above 50 km before proceeding.
IMPORTANT
Car is thoroughly clean inside and out — dealer has done a proper PDI wash
A dirty car at delivery is disrespectful — and more importantly, dirt, grease, and plastic wrap residue hide scratches and paint defects underneath. Demand the car be cleaned before you begin your inspection.
How to check: Look for any plastic protective films still on the body panels (should be removed), factory grease on door seals, or dirt in panel gaps. Ask dealer to clean before proceeding if the car is dirty.
IMPORTANT
Fuel tank has at least a quarter tank of fuel
Delivering a car with a near-empty tank is poor practice and means you can't conduct a proper test drive without stopping for fuel immediately. Dealers are expected to deliver with reasonable fuel — at least enough for a test drive.
How to check: Start the car and check the fuel gauge on the instrument cluster. If it's below a quarter, note it and ask the dealer to add fuel before delivery.
🚘
Exterior Inspection
Walk around the entire car — inspect in daylight
0%▼
CRITICAL
Paint is perfectly uniform — no swirl marks, orange peel, or uneven texture
Factory paint applied by robots is extremely consistent. Swirl marks mean the car was polished incorrectly at the dealership. Orange peel texture (like the skin of an orange) means poor paint application. Both indicate the car was touched up before delivery.
How to check: Look at the paint under bright light at a low angle — swirl marks are circular scratches visible when light hits at the right angle. Orange peel looks like the texture of citrus skin rather than a glass-smooth surface.
CRITICAL
No scratches, chips, or dents on any panel including bumpers and roof
Transport damage is the most common new car defect. Cars travel hundreds of kilometres on open trucks and through dealership handling. Even a "new" car can have transport scratches that dealers hope you won't notice.
How to check: Systematically inspect every panel in order: front bumper → bonnet → roof → boot lid → rear bumper → all 4 doors → both fenders. Crouch to look at door sills. Use a torch on the roof if you can't see it clearly.
CRITICAL
All panel gaps are even, consistent, and perfectly aligned
Factory assembly produces extremely precise panel gaps. Uneven gaps on a brand-new car indicate either a manufacturing defect or that the car was in a minor accident during transport and repaired before delivery — without your knowledge.
How to check: Check the gap between bonnet and headlights (both sides should be identical), between each door, between boot lid and rear bumper. Use a finger to physically measure — the gap width should feel exactly the same on both sides.
IMPORTANT
Windshield is perfect — no chips, cracks, bubbles in the seal, or distortion
Windshield damage can occur during transport when stones kick up on flatbed trucks. A chip can spread into a full crack within weeks. The windshield seal should be perfectly flush with no bubbles or gaps from the factory.
How to check: Stand outside and look at the full windshield from multiple angles. Check the rubber/adhesive seal around the perimeter — it should be perfectly even with no bubbles. Sit inside and look through the glass at a light source for any distortion.
IMPORTANT
All exterior lights work — headlights, DRL, indicators, fog lights, tail lights, reverse
Non-functioning lights are a safety and legal issue. They also indicate a manufacturing defect or wiring issue that should be resolved before you accept the car. Testing takes 3 minutes and is non-negotiable.
How to check: Turn headlights on and walk around the front. Turn indicators on and check all four corners. Check fog lights (front and rear if equipped). Have someone stand behind the car while you engage reverse and brake. Check DRL separately.
IMPORTANT
All 4 tyres are the same brand, same size, and show no damage or flat spots
All 4 tyres should be identical brand and size as specified for your variant. A different brand tyre on one wheel means a tyre was damaged and replaced at the dealership — another issue they should disclose. Flat spots develop when cars sit stationary for months.
How to check: Check the brand name on each tyre sidewall — all 4 must be identical. Check the size code (e.g. 195/65 R15) on all 4. Roll the car forward slightly and feel for any thumping when driving, which indicates flat spots from long storage.
IMPORTANT
Both wing mirrors intact, undamaged, and electric adjustment works smoothly
Wing mirrors are vulnerable during transport and dealership parking. A cracked housing or non-functioning electric motor means the car was damaged. Check the mirror glass itself for any chips or cracks too.
How to check: Visually inspect both mirror housings for any cracks or paint chips. If your variant has electric mirrors, use the switch to adjust both mirrors through their full range of movement in all directions. Power folding mirrors — test fold and unfold.
BASIC
Boot opens and closes smoothly with even gap and good seal
The boot rubber seal should compress evenly all around when closed. An uneven seal will let water, dust, and noise in. The boot should also open fully and stay open without sagging on its own.
How to check: Open the boot and check it stays open without assistance. Press on the rubber seal around the perimeter — it should feel soft and even. Close the boot and check the gap is consistent all around.
🪑
Interior Inspection
Check everything systematically — don't rush
0%▼
CRITICAL
No dashboard warning lights remain on after engine start and warmup
Warning lights that stay on after the engine starts and runs for 30 seconds indicate active fault codes — in a brand-new car, this is unacceptable. Do not accept any car with an illuminated check engine, ABS, airbag, or any other warning light.
How to check: Start the car and let it run for 60 seconds. All warning lights that come on at startup should go off as the system self-tests. Any light that remains on after 60 seconds = active fault. Do not accept.
CRITICAL
Infotainment system powers on, is fully responsive, and connects to phone
Infotainment issues in new cars are more common than you'd expect. Dead touchscreen zones, software that freezes, or Bluetooth that won't pair are all defects that should be resolved before you sign. Replacement screens cost ₹15,000–₹60,000.
How to check: Touch every corner and zone of the screen for responsiveness. Test Bluetooth by pairing your phone. Play music through the speakers — check all speaker positions. Test Android Auto or Apple CarPlay if available. Try the reverse camera.
CRITICAL
AC cools strongly and quickly on all vents at maximum setting
A new car AC should be ice-cold within 90 seconds on maximum. Weak cooling in a new car indicates an incorrectly charged or leaking AC system — a manufacturing or pre-delivery defect that the dealer must fix before handover.
How to check: Set AC to maximum cold and maximum fan. After 90 seconds, hold your hand at each vent — front left, front right, rear left, rear right. All should blow equally cold. Weak or warm airflow from any vent = defect to raise.
IMPORTANT
All seats are clean, undamaged, and correctly adjusted
Seat damage — tears, stains, or compressed foam — in a new car indicates it was used as a demo or test drive vehicle. Also test that seat adjustment (manual or electric) works through the full range of movement.
How to check: Inspect both front seats and all rear seat positions for any tears, stains, or marks. Sit in the driver's seat and test all adjustment positions. For electric seats, test every motor direction. Check headrest adjustment on all seats.
IMPORTANT
All windows operate smoothly from every switch position
Window regulator issues can appear even in new cars as manufacturing defects. Test every window from the main switch panel and from each individual door switch. A window that moves slowly or makes noise has a defective motor or regulator.
How to check: Roll down and up each window individually using the main switch panel first. Then test each individual window switch on each door. Movement should be smooth, silent, and complete. Test auto-up and auto-down features if available.
IMPORTANT
Sunroof opens, tilts, and closes completely without grinding (if applicable)
Sunroof motors and tracks are complex mechanisms. A new sunroof should operate silently and completely. Any grinding, hesitation, or incomplete travel indicates a track alignment issue or motor defect that is expensive to fix later.
How to check: Test the tilt function first, then full open, then close. Listen for any grinding or motor strain sounds during operation. Check that the seal around the sunroof is perfectly flush when closed — gaps will cause wind noise and potential water leaks.
IMPORTANT
All dashboard controls, buttons, and switches work correctly
Systematically test every single control. Non-working buttons in a new car are manufacturing defects that must be fixed before handover — not after. Once you sign, getting dealers to fix small issues becomes significantly harder.
How to check: Test: all AC and fan controls, all steering wheel buttons, hazard lights, interior lighting, rear defroster, wiper controls at all speeds, trip meter reset, drive mode selectors, and any ADAS or driver assist buttons on your variant.
BASIC
All USB ports, charging points, and wireless charger work
Plug your phone into every USB port to confirm it both charges and transfers data. Test the 12V power socket. Test the wireless charging pad if your variant has one. Non-working ports are a defect to note before signing.
How to check: Plug your phone cable into every USB-A and USB-C port in the car. Test the 12V cigarette lighter socket with a phone charger adapter. Place your phone on the wireless pad if equipped and confirm charging begins.
🔧
Engine Bay
Basic checks — takes 5 minutes, no expertise needed
0%▼
CRITICAL
No oil leaks visible anywhere on the engine or on the ground beneath
An oil leak in a brand-new car means a gasket or seal was incorrectly fitted at the factory. This is a manufacturing defect that must be fixed before handover — running an engine low on oil causes catastrophic damage.
How to check: Start the car and let it run for 5 minutes. Then look at the ground directly under the engine for any wet spots. Also look at the bottom of the engine block with a torch — specifically around the sump, valve cover, and oil filter.
CRITICAL
Engine idles smoothly with no knocking, ticking, or rattling sounds
A new engine should be completely silent at idle except for the normal mechanical sounds of the engine running. Any knocking, ticking, or rattling is a manufacturing defect or incorrect assembly that needs to be investigated before you sign for the car.
How to check: Open the bonnet with engine running. Listen for 2 minutes at idle. Then gently rev the engine 2–3 times and listen during acceleration. Any metallic sounds that are not smooth or that change with RPM must be flagged to the dealer.
IMPORTANT
Engine oil level is correct and oil is clean golden/amber colour
New car engine oil should be clean and at the correct level. Dark or black oil in a new car suggests the wrong oil was used, old oil was filled, or the car has done significantly more km than the odometer shows.
How to check: Pull the dipstick, wipe clean, re-dip. The level should be between MIN and MAX. The oil on the dipstick should be transparent amber or golden — not dark brown or black. New cars should have clean oil.
IMPORTANT
Coolant level is correct and coolant is clean coloured liquid
Coolant should be at the MAX line in a new car. Low coolant means either a leak or the car was incorrectly filled at the factory. Dirty or rusty coolant in a new car is a serious quality control failure.
How to check: Find the semi-transparent coolant reservoir. Level should be at or near MAX. Colour should be green, blue, or pink depending on the brand — NOT brown or rusty. If cloudy or dark, flag it immediately.
BASIC
Battery terminals are tight, clean, and properly connected
Loose battery terminals cause complete electrical failure. In new cars, this is rare but worth 10 seconds to check. Corrosion on a new battery terminal means the car sat in storage too long with the battery discharging and recharging repeatedly.
How to check: Look at the red (+) and black (−) battery terminals. They should be tight — try to wiggle each one. The metal surfaces should be clean with no white or blue powdery corrosion.
📄
Documents & Accessories Kit
Everything the dealer must hand over — check against this list
0%▼
CRITICAL
Insurance policy document received — check start date and type (Comprehensive)
Insurance must start on the day of delivery — not a day later. Driving even 1 km without valid insurance is illegal. Also confirm it's Comprehensive (covers your own damage) not just Third Party. Check the policy is in your name with the correct registration number.
How to check: Open the policy document and verify: your name, the vehicle registration number (or temporary number), policy start date = today, policy type = Comprehensive/Package. Call the insurer's customer care to verify the policy is live if you have any doubt.
CRITICAL
Warranty card received, filled with dealer stamp, date, and chassis number
The warranty card is your legal proof of warranty. Without it properly stamped by the dealer, claiming warranty repairs becomes a dispute. The chassis number on the warranty card must match the car exactly.
How to check: Open the warranty booklet. Confirm: dealer name and stamp present, delivery date filled in, chassis number written and correct, authorised service intervals noted. Incomplete or unstamped warranty cards must be completed before you leave.
CRITICAL
Both sets of keys/remotes received — tested and working
New cars come with 2 sets of keys (sometimes 3 for premium models). Missing keys are your loss the moment you drive away — replacements cost ₹5,000–₹25,000 depending on the key type and brand. Test both physically lock, unlock, and start the car.
How to check: Count the keys provided. Test Key 1: lock/unlock remotely, insert in door, start the car. Test Key 2: same sequence. For push-start cars — test proximity detection with each key separately. Demand any missing keys before leaving.
IMPORTANT
Spare tyre is present, inflated to correct pressure, and is the correct size
Some dealers substitute a smaller "space saver" spare when the full-size spare goes missing — or deliver without a spare entirely. Know what type of spare your variant comes with (full size, space saver, or tyre sealant kit) and verify it's present.
How to check: Look in the boot under the floor panel or mounted externally (for SUVs). Confirm: spare tyre is present, correct size matching your variant spec, and inflated (kick it — should feel firm). If your variant uses a puncture repair kit instead, confirm the kit is present and the sealant isn't expired.
IMPORTANT
Jack, tyre removal tools, and wheel spanner are present and complete
Without the jack and tyre changing tools, a flat tyre leaves you stranded. These items are often missing when dealers do "spring cleaning" of car boots. Check every individual piece is present — a jack without the handle, or a spanner without the extension, is useless.
How to check: Open the tool kit bag or pouch stored with the spare tyre. Verify: scissor jack present, jack handle and extension present, wheel nut spanner present, wheel nut cover remover (if applicable). Try the jack mechanism to confirm it operates.
IMPORTANT
Owner's manual and service booklet received — correct to your model
The owner's manual contains important safety, maintenance, and feature information specific to your car. The service booklet is where your first and subsequent services get stamped — essential for warranty and resale. Confirm both are for your exact model year and variant.
How to check: Check the cover of the owner's manual — does it mention your exact model name? Open the service booklet to the first service entry. Is the km interval pre-filled by the dealer? Is it correct for your variant (typically 10,000 km or 1 year)?
IMPORTANT
All paid accessories and add-ons from booking are fitted and functioning
Every accessory you paid for on your booking invoice must be fitted before delivery. Dealers sometimes forget accessories, deliver incorrect items, or fit lower-quality substitutes. Check your booking invoice against what's actually in the car.
How to check: Pull out your booking invoice and find the accessories list. Go through each item: floor mats (correct type?), seat covers, body kit, alloys, dash cam, infotainment upgrades — physically verify each is present and functional.
🛣️
Test Drive
Do this before signing — it is non-negotiable
0%▼
CRITICAL
Car starts immediately and smoothly every time — no hesitation
A new car should start instantly with zero hesitation every single time. Slow cranking, multiple attempts needed, or any roughness during startup in a brand-new car indicates a battery, starter, or engine management issue that is unacceptable at delivery.
How to check: Start the car, let it run for 30 seconds, switch off completely. Restart immediately. Repeat 2–3 times. Each start should be identical — instant and smooth. Note if the idle settles correctly within 30 seconds each time.
CRITICAL
Brakes are firm and car stops perfectly straight — no pulling, no vibration
New car brakes should be firm, progressive, and result in perfectly straight stopping. Pulling to one side indicates brake imbalance. Vibration through the pedal indicates disc runout. Both are manufacturing defects to raise before signing.
How to check: On an empty road, brake firmly from 40 kmph. The pedal should be firm and progressive. The car should decelerate in a straight line with zero pulling. No vibration through the pedal or steering wheel. Repeat and increase to 60 kmph on a clear road.
CRITICAL
Steering is centred — car drives straight with no pulling left or right
A new car with misaligned wheels indicates it was incorrectly assembled or damaged in transit. Wheel alignment is cheap to fix but recurring misalignment on a new car suggests deeper suspension or geometry issues that can accelerate tyre wear significantly.
How to check: On a straight empty road at 50 kmph, release the steering wheel gently for 3 seconds. The car should maintain direction with zero drift. Cross-wind can affect this, so test in both directions on the same road to rule it out.
CRITICAL
Gearbox shifts smoothly — no grinding (MT), jerking, or hesitation (AT/CVT/AMT)
Gearbox issues in new cars are serious manufacturing defects. AMT (Automated Manual) gearboxes are notorious for slight jerks but should not be rough. Automatic and CVT should be completely imperceptible. Manual should have smooth, precise shifts with zero grinding.
How to check: Manual: shift through all gears 1–5 including reverse. Any resistance or grinding = defect. Automatic/CVT: accelerate smoothly from 0 to 80 kmph — no jerks between ratios. AMT: some head-nod is normal but should not be rough or violent. Test kickdown by accelerating sharply.
IMPORTANT
Suspension absorbs bumps cleanly — no clunks, squeaks, or excessive bouncing
New car suspension should be completely rattle-free. Any clunking over bumps indicates loose suspension components — a manufacturing or assembly defect. Squeaking from springs is also unacceptable on delivery and should be noted.
How to check: Drive over a speed bump at walking speed and listen. Completely silent = good. Any clunk = raise with dealer. After the bump, the car should settle immediately with no bouncing. Drive over the bump again faster — same check.
IMPORTANT
No wind noise, rattles, or squeaks from interior panels at speed
Interior rattles in a new car indicate poorly fitted panels or trim pieces. Wind noise from windows or the windshield seal suggests incorrect sealing. Both are quality issues that dealerships can and should fix before delivery — they worsen over time.
How to check: Turn off the music. Drive at 60–80 kmph on a smooth road. Listen carefully from different seat positions. Ask a passenger to sit in the rear and listen. Any rattle, squeak, or wind whistle should be identified and raised with the service team.
BASIC
AC continues to cool effectively while driving — no drop in cooling
Some AC systems show reduced cooling performance under engine load (accelerating hard) due to compressor capacity or calibration issues. This should not happen in a properly functioning system. Test during the drive rather than only at standstill.
How to check: With AC on max cold during the test drive, accelerate firmly a few times. Check if the cooling from the vents reduces noticeably during hard acceleration. Some reduction is normal but a significant drop indicates an AC calibration or compressor issue.
🎉
—
—
—
—
Items passed
—
Issues found
—
🔐
Sign in to access the checklist
Create a free account to purchase and access your New Car PDI checklist. Takes 10 seconds with Google.
Preview — 6 of 42 checkpoints
Invoice colour and variant matches what you ordered
Chassis number matches invoice exactly
Manufacturing date is within 3 months
All panel gaps are even and consistent
Windshield has no chips or cracks
AC cools strongly within 90 seconds
🔒
Unlock the full 42-point checklist
Get instant access to every inspection point — with detailed tips and scoring. Use it right now at the dealership on your phone.
✓ 42 detailed checkpoints✓ Good / OK / Bad scoring✓ Live delivery score✓ Negotiation recommendations✓ Works on mobile
₹199₹99one-time
🔒 Secure payment · Instant access · No subscription
🚗
New Car PDI Checklist
42-point inspection checklist with scoring. Instant access — use it today at the dealership.